blue gentleman's outfit
with some notes on the brown outfit thrown in for good measure

2 October 2004
Today I embark on a new project, one which has been pestering me for some time. A new outfit for my husband, Joe.
I have been thinking about this for some time, but this time it's for real. What prompted this renewed interest in this was the beginning
of the Margo's Patterns Portrait Contest.  The fabrics are a lovely blue color, which I came from numerous places, none of it expensive,
most from the community stash that comes shared by me and my mom.

Below are pics of the fabrics and the buttons I'd like to use, but Joe isn't so sure about them. I haven't had a chance to pull out PoF to show him just how period they are yet, but I hope that turns the tide in their favor. They are white rayon on a plastic bail that dyes really well. I've already used a few of them on the striped side of my thistle sleeves and have given up the others that were set aside for my doublet to use them here. 
                                  
After looking at many portraits of men in blue, Joe and I choose to use a portrait of an unknown man dressed in sort of a salmon color for inspiration,
knowing that we would be using blue instead.

Things that are going to be a challenge:
1. I have only just over 2 yards of the blue diamond fabric and would like to use it for both doublet & slops.
2. I'm going to end up either a. special ordering tights to match from Renaissance Dancewear or  b. ordering
    white tights and trying to dye them to the right color.
3. Fitting the doublet, since I haven't done this before.
4. and always cash, or the lack it. Luckily, I have most, if not all of the things I need, I hope!

4 October
    I managed to convince Joe that the buttons I had were, although not period (they're on plastic bails), pretty darn close.
This was achieved with the help of Janet Arnold and all those great men's clothes in PoF that show buttons that are similar.
I set aside enough for the doublet and a few extra for sleeves. Since I was feeling unlike playing with fabric I tossed them and
a silk pouch I had won from an earlier contest into some dye. I now have beautiful navy buttons and a pouch that is not quite
the right shade of blue, yet, but it's closer than white was.

6 October
     As promised, a sketch of the blue outfit! I think it's going to be rather smashing in blue. The line drawing that I colored in came from the site of St. George Productions, LLC of Virginia they are under "costuming" Since the fabric is rather
fancy already, I won't be adding any pearls or gold studs to it. You know, I hadn't realized this before, but Joe strikes a
resemblance to the Unknown Man that is the inspiration for this outfit. Now all I am going to have to find is some nice
Roman ruins and to borrow a rapier (since Joe doesn't own one yet) and I'll have a great photo, but I get ahead of myself!
I'm hoping to have a chance to cut into some fabric, some blue chambray that has a nice hand and get this started in the
next week, unfortunately, rehearsals and finding costumes for Murder at the Banquet is taking precedence. It's a paying
gig & has to come first.

10 October
 Today I managed to cut the doublet out of chambray to see how much fabric it would
 take to make the doublet and see if I'm going to have enough for both it and the slops. Looks like I'm in
luck! I know  that I'm going to end up shortening the doublet a little bit once I have a chance to try it on Joe,
so I'll have even more fabric available, happy dance!  I tossed the pieces onto the male mannequin I
inherited from my mom (which is super nice, since they are hard to find) It's starting to look like a real garment!

17 October
All doublet work is on hold until after Halloween...

8 November
I'm having a technical problem at home, so all updates have to be made at the office. No work has been done on the doublet since
my last update, just too busy with Murder at the Banquet.- Scratch that, problem fixed!

9 November
Although I left the camera at the office and wasn't able to photograph it, I tried the muslin on Joe. I had intentionally just safety pinned
the seams and made them extra deep to see if I had a chance of its fitting...

Good news is it looks like it'll fit, but I know that that may change when the fashion fabric is cut, so I'll be marking where things were
pinned and stitching the doublet seams so it ends up a bit larger and trying it out again in the near future. It's unlikely to happen this
week, West Wing is on tomorrow and there are Murder at the Banquet performances the rest of the week, but maybe Monday &
Tuesday next week.  It would also be pointless to work on it this weekend since Joe will be at a LAN party with the guys and I wouldn't
be able to fit it on him anyway.

16 November
So, back to the drawing board, again...
I really thought that I had the neck figured out and the doublet was going together great when I tried it on Joe again. Frowning and then laughing I asked, "Did you grow this weekend?" Having re-cut the back already, that looks great, but I must have had the wrong chest measurement, b/c the front doesn't. Man is it a good thing I have LOTS of this chambray. I'm going to cut the new fronts tonight and try it again. At least I got one thing right, Joe said that the larger arm holes are good and will be very comfy when they are finished. A small victory, but I'll take what I can get.
Later...
I figured out all the issues the fabric and I were having and am now at a point where I can cut the real fabric. Since I had more than
a couple of problems fitting this doublet I'm going to be making a paper pattern from the alterations so I'll have a jumping off point
for Joe's next doublet.

I'm a bit afraid to cut the real fabric for 2 reasons. 1. I don't have much (see 2 October entry) and I'm going to do my best to match
the pattern. I think I'm going to start by cutting the back and work my way forward, only time will tell if this will work or not...

17 November
Well, after 4 hours of moving the fabric pieces around on the fashion fabric I finally figured out how to make everything fit and I would
have had some fabric left over for a pouch or something, but I goofed cutting the front tabs, twice. Somehow I just couldn't get them to
look right. If I had  taken the time to line up the first one I cut with the fabric correctly, it would have (should have) been a snap. It wasn't.
Other than that cutting out the slops and doublet pieces wasn't very eventful and I am just waiting for the linen to stretch so I can cut that.
It's hanging out on our line on our deck and I'm taking advantage of the mists to help me in the hanging out process. When I made a dress
for my mom out of the same stuff it stretched so far that I had to cut off a full 6 inches and then make a deep hem, what a nightmare.
I asked Joe what he thought of the outfit so far and got a typically Joe (typically male?) reply, "It looks like pieces. You know I can't
visualize things like that." Right, but the closet systems he builds at work each day at no problem. (insert eye roll here)

21 November
I've switched gears a bit and am working on Joe's slops instead of the doublet.  I would like to finish them first so that the final fittings of
the doublet can be done over the correct bottom garment. Ideally I'd have started with the slops in the first place, but since I really needed
to know how much fabric was going to be taken up with the doublet, I had to do that first.

At this point all the pieces for both garments are cut and ready to go.  After figuring out that I'll need 12 yards of piping just for the slops
and more for the doublet tabs etc, I came to the conclusion that I'm about 12 yards short. I'd already made 5 yards figuring that this
would be enough for the parts of the doublet I'd like to pipe, but now more is going to be made. I've told Joe I'd like his help on this part
of the project . I really don't mind sewing the piping, but I'm not the best at cutting the corduroy evenly when I'm going against the wales.
I'm also coming to terms with the fact that if I keep taking as long as I currently am to make each pane, it will take me 4 hours just to
complete that portion of the slops!  Such is the way to perfection...

30 November
I've been out of town for Thanksgiving, so nothing was worked on from last Wed. until Mon. I did find a 6' aluminum ruler at Menard's
(for those outside the Midwest it's a home improvement store) while shopping w/ my in-laws. I no longer have to swipe Joe's 4' one when
I need a straight edge; it's longer than 60" wide fabric and cost under $10, what a deal! I've picked up a life sucking virus and don't have
the energy it takes to work on things. Last night I managed to make up one of the three remaining panes for the slops and I pinned piping
to the skirting tabs, but after that I had to quit. 

I'm also dropping in a couple of pics that really go with earlier entries, but I hadn't taken the time to upload them until now.
First is the puzzle that figuring out how to fit everything turned into. It may look like I have a lot of extra fabric, but the epaulets and skirting
were not in the mix yet. Next is what it looked like while I was letting the linen stretch out on the line. I put this up because it shows the color
nicely. The third photo shows how the piped edge of the panes looks against the linen, although a pain, I have to admit it really gives a
nicely trimmed edge. Last is my ugly chair covered with pieces in various states of production, nothing really interesting, I just thought
someone might like to see what a corner of my sewing room looks like.
               

8 December
Although I haven't posted anything, I have been working. Over the past weekend Joe's slops became something pant-like. At this point
they don't have a waistband or legbands, but they're mostly in one piece. I have yet to cut the lining, but once that's done and together the
rest should go rather quickly. Joe had his first fitting of the slops and complained that there was a lump in the crotch area. I joked that that
was because there were about 17 layers of fabric there, but since I'd like him to be comfy I tacked down all the seam allowances and now
the crotch lays much more smoothly. I also found out that Renaissance Dancewear stopped taking orders the end of November, so I'm
going to call up Felix Needleworthy and order off white tights from him and with some dye from Dharma Trading see what I can do.

13 December
Today I felt tres productive, but not on Joe's blue outfit.  For what I did get done visit the miscellaneous projects page.

6 January 2005
I have not been neglecting this project! Honestly I have been a little preoccupied with other things, one of which is Joe's Brown Hunting
Outfit. I haven't bothered to make a journal about it b/c it's going together very fast and in many ways is a part of this one. The brown
doublet started when I thought why make 1 when the measurements have all been taken and the fittings done, when you can make 2?
So, a second doublet was cut, the other motive being, I really don't want to goof the blue one. The brown fabric came from Wal-Mart a
few years ago and was super cheap, if I screw up I have more. The brown is the doublet test run for the blue. If you'd like to see photos
of this work in progress visit the miscellaneous projects page. It has the other adventures I've been distracting myself with as well.

11 January
The slops are almost done! They would be finished but, I sorta sewed something on the lining wrong. For some odd reason even though
I cut the lining using the same pattern as the inner lining they are different sizes. I think I made the seams deeper on the lining than I
should have. Serves me right for not doing it all at the same time. I'm hoping to have the energy to fix the mistakes and get it finished today. Since I'm home w/ a cold, I'll see how far I get. Nose blowing has to be a priority.

17 January
Slops finished! Once I managed to get Joe to stand still long enough to double check the leg band and waist band size, things went
together very fast. I took some photos, but left the camera at the office, so I'll be posting those soon. A couple of things I did helped make
the final bits easier. I basically cartridge pleated the fabric at the waist and the legs. The last time I made slops I tried to pin them into the
bands without doing this and although it wasn't bad, this was so much better! I did each of the legs in two parts, front and back and the
waist in four, divided front, back and side seams and it made fitting all the fabric into the bands pretty easy. The second thing I did is
something I had done on the  burgundy & black slops too, hook tape. I don't have the patience to stitch individual hooks, so I head over
to the fabric store and get the hook & loop tape that's in the drapery section. It comes in black or white. For this project I got white and
since I'm sorta anal like that, I dyed it blue. I stitched it through the lining and inner lining layers and added some of the cord piping that
finished the panes of the slops to one side to give it continuity to the rest of the slops. Looks really nice, IMHO.

I also had the chance to put together the brown doublet, also very sexy. I need to cut & add the waist & shoulder treatments, finish off the
arm holes and add the buttons. I've ended up adding some olive silk that I used on the venetians down the front opening and will be using
the same on the arm holes, it really adds that je ne sais quoi the doublet needed.

22 January
Ahhh, the home stretch is in sight.  I was waiting to pick up some interfacing for the skirting and wings on the brown doublet before I could
put it all together. Joe and I made a fabric run today- yesterday the snow storm made going anywhere a stupid idea, plus SG-1 was on.
Anyway, we found some cotton almost the same color as the lining on the brown doublet that came from my stash. I had already had a
chance to make even more silk piping (someone remind me that I'm not piping the edges of anything for a very long time) and add it to
the outer fabric of the sleeves. After washing the gold lining fabric I quickly cut it and got everything sewn together. I'm waiting until Sunday
to cut the interfacing because I rinsed it in HOT water and it needs to dry totally before trying to cut and fuse it.  I really can see the end of
this part of the project. Then it's on to re-focusing and getting some work done on the blue doublet.

27 January
The Brown Hunting Outfit is complete! Okay, I need to add the lacing rings at the shoulder for the sleeves to tie to, but that doesn't really
count, does it? Between my last update and this one I... interfaced the doublet skirting and wings, stitched them together, lined the doublet
and  turned it right side out, added piping to the arm holes to finish the raw edges, added the shoulder wings by hand (the skirting was
added b4 the lining) added all the buttons to both the doublet and the sleeves - only 28 total, and then had some hot chocolate!

Now I'm going to finish up work on the Blue Doublet in much the same fashion and wrap up this journal (yeah right, like it'll be that simple)

1 February
First up is a photo of the truly beautiful seam on the back of the doublet. I worked with the pattern pieces to line up the pattern, but I'm
never really sure if it'll work or not, so, since it did I had to brag about it! Next is the layout of the buttons. I used the fabric as the guide
and placed the buttons on every other olive horizontal line. Next to the button layout it a shot of the button loops on the almost finished
doublet. I used hair elastics cut in half and stitched into the seam of the outer fabric and the lining to make the loops. I like to use elastic
b/c it's easy to get into and out of and hair binders give me most of the colors I've ever needed. Please check out the Armoire page for
the pictures of the complete outfit on the mannequin. As soon as I have photos of Joe in his Hunting Costume, that's where they'll be.
                       

16 February
I'm not neglecting my sewing, but Eden Prairie Players I Remember Mama, opens on Friday night, so, the show has been taking up
much of my time. If you're interested in attending, the shows are Feb. 18 & 19, 25 & 26 at 7pm and Sunday, Feb. 27 at 2pm. The show
is at Eden Prairie High School's Auditorium, on Valley View Rd, west of Eden Prairie Rd.
As if that wasn't keeping me busy enough, A Scottish Ramble is this weekend!  There's tons of info on the website (I should know, I'm its
mistress)  Ramble really is a fun family event. It's affordable and there is lots to do. I'd LOVE to see some of you Twin Cities locals show
up in your beautiful costumes.

2 March
Eeek! March? Already? Right now the blue doublet is in a holding pattern, the combo of I Remember Mama and Scottish Ramble caused
me to come down with a killer cold. I spent most of last week in bed and when I wasn't I didn't want to do anything, especially sew. I did get
a new toy- a real grown up serger. I now have a Brother 1043D which I love. When I first took it out of the box and watched the CD I was
rather intimidated, it can do things I hadn't even thought of doing. I just looked at it for a few days. Then I managed the courage to thread
it and plug it in. Now I'm a little obsessed. I can't wait to find new things to serge, LOL.  My in-laws are visiting this weekend so my sewing
goals include making my room presentable- this could take some doing.

6 March
I did it again! I allowed myself to get sidetracked. Today while shopping for other fabric needs my Mom-in-law found the fabric I didn't
know I needed to make a Venetian gown. It's lovely and there was only 4 5/8 yards and it ended up being about $ 4 a yard. Digression...
one of my greatest faults. Joe also found lovely (new fav. word?) cord in the exact rust color that is in his brown outfit. It's going to become
a cape. We're not yet sure what the lining will be be. Joe's thinking a matching rust color, I'm leaning toward an olive that will match the
piping, either way we're both thinking linen. Should this entry have been in the misc. projects? Probably, but oh, well.

31 March
It seems I have been neglecting Joe's outfit, doesn't it? Well, I just haven't been in much of a mood to sew lately. I'm finally starting to get
the itch to work on something again, but I always feel it for my own outfits, not those of others. Unfortunately, I have this one to finish and
a noble gown for a friend to work on b4 I can start anything for myself.  I am at the point of having this almost done. I need to attach the
collars to both the lining and the outside layer and then attach the loops for the buttons and the waist tabs to the outer layer and deal with
the piping for the front edges and the neck before I can put the layers together. After that I'll just need to finish the arm holes and attach the shoulder wings & buttons. After that I *should* be pretty much done with the doublet. Of course the debate over what to make the sleeves
from continues, but time for the contest is dwindling, so we have to choose soon!

I am just praying that I can focus my energy this weekend because I also am needing to finish wedding invites for a client- we're getting
together on Sunday to assemble, do real work with a bridal shower next Sunday, the Murder at the Banquet revival is this weekend and
next, so that ties my time up and as soon as that's closed I'm in to Pajama Game costumes!- luckily 1950s skirts shouldn't be the
challenge that 1560s doublets are!

16 April
Finally, progress! Instead of writing what I finished today, I will write what still needs to be completed. 
1. Finishing the arm openings
2. Sewing on the buttons
3. Adding the shoulder wings
4. Figuring out & making the sleeves
5. Getting some blue tights

Once again I used hair elastics to make button loops the correct color & just as I did on the Brown Hunting Doublet  I piped along the front
edge on one side to give some definition to the front of the doublet.   I might be making another cape from some blue cotton velveteen
that was a rummage sale find. Joe doesn't think he needs a cape for this outfit, but it would be so very dashing if he had one, we'll see.
I guess the dilemma of the sleeves should be taken care of first. The more I think about it the more using the blue linen and piping the
opening makes the most sense. I know that it's a deviation from the portrait, but this outfit is supposed to be "inspired" by, not necessarily
a copy of, a painting. As for tights, I've come the conclusion that $22 for tights from Sock Dreams is a better deal than spending more for
a pair somewhere else. I've heard only good things about Sock Dreams & I'm willing to give them a try, plus they ship free, so that's even
better.

21 April
Buttons = madness! I finished sewing on the buttons and tried the doublet on Joe, only to find that I have to rip off most of them and move
themover about 1/3". The good news is, it's really beautiful.  Oh, well, that's just an hour's worth of stitching down the drain, what else is new? 
I think I'm going to save the ripping for another day- had a migraine yesterday & I'm still feeling it today, so I'm off to bed at a reasonable
hour w/ my meds in hand.

27 April
The doublet is done! I still need to make sleeves, but after a small mishap with trying to dye some baby blue velvet to a more grey blue
color, I'm still looking for the right fabric. Here are a couple of pics for those of you dying to see the finished outfit.
    

3 May
Perfect fabric found! I tossed the formerly baby blue, then grey velvet into another dye bath and then another and have finally come up
with the perfect color. (insert happy dance) I bathed it in royal blue with just the tiniest bit of dark green added and I couldn't have a better
color if I had planned it. I think the sleeves will harmonize with the rest of the outfit well and the velvet will add a nice variety of texture. I'm
hoping to get things wrapped up this week because the first fitting for costumes for Pajama Game are tonight and Saturday & after that I'll
be pretty busy. I can't believe I started this way back in October! It's about time I finish it up.

9 May
I've cut out the sleeves, no really I did. I've finished the edges with the serger. I know it isn't period at all, but I like knowing that the fabric won't stretch much when I'm working with it and that it won't ravel once the garment's together. I'll be adding
more  (oh, god, not more!) piping to the edges along the front opening and the cuff and using the same buttons.
Here's a comparison shot of what the fabric looked like before and after the dye baths. I didn't think to save a piece when it was grey, but you'll get the idea. It wasn't hideous before, but certainly not right for this project.

18 May
I'm up to my ears in Pajama Game, so the only work that's getting done right now is on those costumes. I did, however, get my SimFlex
from Denver Fabrics, so placing buttons, etc. in the future will be a snap. (was that a pun?) I'm hoping to finish up Joe's sleeves this
weekend and then get some photos. I'm really having fun working on PJ Game, but I've come to the conclusion that I can only take so
much 1950s at a time.

21 May
Isn't about time I finish this up? The sleeves would be finished, really they would, but I'm out of the right color ribbon for the ties at the
shoulder. It's a lousy excuse, especially since I haven't attached the buttons yet either, but my wrist is ready to a break and my brain is too. Tomorrow I'll finish, I promise. Then, back to the 50s.

On an unrelated, note I've started digging in my stash for an upcoming Venetian gown for myself and I'm finding all sorts of neat things.
I'm thinking of using some lovely gold silk that I got in a remnant bin a while back as the lining and (dare I say it?) piping. I know I said I
wasn't  going to pipe anything for a very long time, but this is just the edges of the bodice, so it won't be tough. But I AM going to finish
Joe's first.

29 May
Sleeves? Check! Check!
I picked up the ribbon for the ties on the sleeves on Friday, and since I inadvertently purchased knit pickers instead of seam rippers I
got to visit the fabric store twice in one weekend.  This turned out to be a very good thing because I not only got seam rippers, but they
were 50% off as were the gold nail head studs that I thought I was going to have to order online that I needed to finish  the gold sleeves
that match my gold forepart that have been waiting for a very long time since Dritz stopped making the studs I started with.
Hence, the double check- two pair of sleeves were finished today! I'll try to get photos up tomorrow, but I'm also going to me finishing
up the sewing part of PJ Game, so it might not happen as soon as I'd like.

7 May
Today I ordered tights from Sock Dreams, so all I have left is finishing the hat (b/c every outfit needs a hat, even if it isn't in the portrait)
& sewing in the lacing rings for the sleeves after Joe tries everything on. Not too bad, if I do say so myself.

27 June
I'm finished, at last! I'm waiting for an exchange of color of tights from Sock Dreams (a dream to order from) so Joe's wearing his
black tights in the photos, but it's basically done! I'm a little disappointed in myself, I just noticed (in the last 20 mins) that the guy in the
portrait is holding  a hat. It looks to be an Italian bonnet, so I might just make a second hat since I have yet to finish the first one.
Pics on the costume armoire page.

23 July
Today I switched around the journal to read in chronological order. I am very happy with the tights from Sock Dreams, the white ones dyed
beautifully and as soon as there are photos of the outfit with them (earlier pics have Joe in black tights) I'll post them. I still haven't made a
hat, but that will get fixed one of these days. Other than that, this outfit is done!

24 July
Just found out that I received the 3rd place prize in the Intermediate category of the Margo's Patterns Portrait Contest. I must admit I'm
happily surprised, there were such amazing entries. It's quite an honor.